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Let us concede puerto la cruz few days of rest, tortuga that the first time we had so impressed.
The site keeps its promises and gives us more relaxed day of snorkeling on the reef, walk on pristine beaches and cheerful hosts.
take this opportunity to anchor a day tortuguillos, two small islands a bit further west. Thus we have the opportunity to help a fisherman who had just torn a finger on a rock, treated and sent to hospital in margaritas (if you got away?).
Finally, part way and a ride of 17 hours to cover the 100 miles that separate us from Los Roques,
E 'this central area is characterized by an archipelago of about 20 miles for 5 with very low backgrounds and practically no maps, no waterway, around which many of them small islands stretching several deserts (in the sense that there is none!), each with its passage through the reefs, beaches with sand blinding , a few palm trees, a little paradise ... The only island
with a mountainous relief is the "capital" Gran Roque nice town with streets of sand formed by Posada (used mainly by Italians) and fishermen's houses, even has the airport that connects Los Roques to Caracas (when it falls on the plane!).
On the waterfront where there is still a gathering of all the permanent pelicans World who dive for fish alone or on patrol, a unique spectacle. Of course we could not miss the walk on top of the old lighthouse to have a beautiful view of the island.
Now we go to enjoy the islands less crowded, too many people all together, we are not used!
See you in paradise ...

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Gran Sabana Gran Roque















Puerto la Cruz is a city bustling, chaotic, a little 'style Cuban in some respects, congested with old American cars that jostle among modern off-road safe during the day almost everywhere in the evening rather dangerous, at times interesting, not beautiful.

The highlight of our stay in the mainland is certainly represented by the little trip we did in Venezuela.

The program was more or less the following: bus to ciudad de Bolivar (300 km), coach to to Guyana (100 km), car rental and descent along the Gran Sabana until you get to St. Helena (650 km) one step away from the border with Brazil! (where we could not get not having the vaccine for yellow fever).

La Gran Sabana is an incredible place, the only road that runs straight through the loss an eye in a latch that leads up to 1400 meters between the open plains interrupted by plateaus called tepui dive from which numerous waterfalls, the most famous (Salto Angel) is the world's highest.

You pass through places with names like el dorado (also to be avoided at night) and San Isidro, also known as 88 km, with callao compared to that of the carnival trinidad and many others.

The earth is as red as that of a tennis court, the feeling is that of alternation of Australian scenarios and Africans (though never seen except on TV).

About half of this road we are on a dirt road to get to Kavanayen, a village 70 km inside a basis for going to see the jump Aponwao iboribò with the Indians!

The village alone would be worth the 3 hours of off-road, lost in the middle of the vastness of the sabana, surrounded by tepui horizon, two dusty streets, and people very friendly.

There is also the school where many children come pouring (in feet) do not know from where, there is nothing around for tens of miles away!

Cold, yes, at this altitude, nights are Cold Dust off jeans and sweatshirts after more than three months and custom T-shirt, what a feeling ...

We would like to stop in this place longer, but we have deadlines to be met to return the car, so again on the march, the waterfalls are waiting for us and where we thought to find a wooden canoe to go down the river we find a motor boat, our guide was kind and patient and we enjoy the spectacle of Aponwao jump from above and from below.

The next day we just have time to see a river flowing over a gravel bed and the keeper of the red on the park has kindly advised not to kill mosquitos, that breaks out the rain.

The return is then accelerated and make a leap of almost 400 km, returning to the starting point of fact, from here on ... coaches and we believe, in fact the bus had just split the windshield and then had to maintain a cruising speed of about 60 km / hour! The time to cover the more than 300 km to the marina of Puerto la cruz dilated exponentially more so as the driver, apparently not particularly concerned about the delay that was accumulating, he found time to stop at a stall to try to choose a watermelon that he pleases, or boosted a woman selling aloe ointment to make his speech, too strong!

Finally, exasperated, we went and we took a taxi.

Now think back to the sea

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Tortuga

The night of the cruise from a Blanquilla tortuga has witnessed one of the most fought sailing competitions in history!

parties at the stroke of midnight with little wind, and nicolandra kudra slowly moving ahead towards the south-west with genoa and mainsail with one reef (dictated by prudence) kudra, as always, opens the way and its lights shine at 2 o'clock for a few hours until, with increasing wind, we decided to hoist the Mizzen, and accelerates nicolandra thanks, peter (the steering winds) gives his best and, gradually, we come closer to the opponent and finally we turn to lead the race to general amazement (those who were awake!) to no kudra applies to taking your hand off the mainsail, stay ahead and the goal is approached, at dawn the twist: thanks to a large and well-trained crew (fabio and Camilla), kudra hoist the spinnaker!

With this wing the distance between the two boats inexorably diminishes until, a few miles from Punta Delgada, is overtaking ... kudra enters tortuga by winning but the old nicolandra fought like a lion! At

end all happy and celebrating with a freshly caught barracuda.

Tortuga is to look at, playa caldera, where we have given his first day, is the most visited on the windward side of the long beach opens a lagoon created by numerous reef which is overlooked by some cabins, a ranch minimal and the airport with its runway of compacted sand to the private aircraft of the Venezuelan rich people.

The next day we set sail and go to give funds to Cayo Herradura.

A semicircle of white sand protected by the reef with one hand the lighthouse and the small fishing communities, on the other beach that extends semiaffiorante with a line on which the waves meet external and internal a show, unreal image, outside, between the beach and the reef, aquarium, all at our disposal

L 'atmosphere, under the merciless sun, was described as "bleached and baked, the dazzling sand and the water shines with its transparencies ... Caribbean ...

Here flying day, is the place where you would like to bring all those you love to share the beauty and magic of the place. Exaggerated? Perhaps, but there is definitely a place to visit!

The departure from this little paradise is bold, after having first explored the release, in fact, part of the reef at night!

all right and proceed quietly on their way to the "civilization" to the coast to Puerto La Cruz.

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Blanquilla

It is an uninhabited island guarded by a station guardacostas, off route linking testigos a margarita, completely flat and covered with cacti and shrubs.

the night, the sea and the wind in their sails full stop us from following the direct route, including a jibe and the other, there we lose sight with Kudra, Nicolandra speed is good, and also because of the favorable current, we come close to landing ahead of schedule.

The moon set before us and behind us the light of dawn is still far off when we see three black silhouettes in the dark are the hermanos, large rocks that rise to the south-east of the channel forming a Blanquilla the seabed rises rapidly and can raise a wave dangerous, considering the fact that the island is invisible.

The alternative is to channel around the island from the north or to make a move to the south edge of the cliffs, the obstacle gets closer, the light does not come and we must take a decision, with the VHF kudra and tell us where we feel they are already crossing the channel and the wave is more than manageable, the decision is taken: we also slipped in between us and the island rocks that have not yet it shows!

Shortly after the sun rises behind the hermanos, the island is now a gray stripe on the lower order, we can finally make and enter into the bay where there falucho kudra anchor, we fund and, in the gray morning, we go to sleep .

Meeting with guardacostas are friendly and nice, however, urge us not to move because the boats will come on board to do an inspection, will be resolved chat with 4, 2 sheets filled with questions to be completed and a pack of cigarettes as gifts to the "inspectors".

Yaque beach, before which we anchor the next day, is wonderful, the wind in the next two days is tense but the bay is well protected, becomes acquainted with a few other boats, you turn on the beach, is trolling with the boat and gets a little 'baby-sitter.

also decide to make a walk in the paths beaten by wild asses, the cacti are abundant and are the first victim!

What remains Blanquilla (apart from the thorns!)? The impression of an island away from routes and time, harsh in its vegetation, windy but warm and beautiful in its beaches, with its wild rocks smoothed by to emphasize, once again, the force of the sea.

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Los Testigos

Once anchored in front of the village, after a careful assessment of the situation (= breakfast for all) you decide to send the two captains on the ground for a first contact with the military and the local population. The village consists of a few houses made of wood and metal chairs on the beach, very sleepy, a dog running along the shore, the "captaincy" is a beautiful building of wood on top of the pad and the guard who looks after us so young so what is available that allows us a break of 4 days instead of 48 hours provided.
also raided a military shirtless with machete in hand (the phone frantically trying!) Does not change the impression that we had very positive now.
Back at the boat outboard motor does not want to learn to share and we find ourselves having to paddle against the wind but also how to counter the fierce, hard. I believe that the village has made big laughs, while from our boats do not care as they were happily engaged in eating, after browsing!

The difference that greatly affects compared to the Grenadines and other Windward Islands is the fact that here people are not waiting for your arrival to earn some money selling something, is not seen as a source of employment and income but simply as one who passes through here, with whom, For example, the fish trade with a can of coke or a bit of rice (but just because we went to ask for us by the fishermen), a whole new relationship!
The island is small, with two bays on the lee side, a reef that joins voyant pequeno north, a windward side with spectacular white sand dunes.
The first to carry the anchor Balandra bay with mountains to the ground in a corner that can be mistaken for the Mediterranean, curiously the water is green (and green!) because it is influenced by the Orinoco.

The place is magical and we are fine, the trip on the windward side, in this sandy desert white exposed to the wind and the sea and from which we swim in the ocean waves is memorable, to see it! By the way, no!












Another shot that is worth doing the "walk" to the lighthouse that dominates the island, a climb among rocks, cactus and shrubs along a marked path (and thank goodness!) by white arrows. The arrival at the top in the final climbing to reach the lighthouse that propels you on a very windy location from which to admire the island and the horizon to 360 degrees ...














After a couple of days we move into the bay to the north and we have the opportunity to enjoy real playa, on which stands a hut surrounded by palm trees which me want to plant a bar! (RAFF capital injection, bunch management, ex-artistic director, Andrew at the piano, Giovannetti the dive center, franz nothing because he goes by boat).

After 4 days and weighed anchor in the late afternoon we bow to Blanquilla 300 ° direction, the adventure continues ...